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Dining in Nauru

When one writes a blog that primarily focuses on street food and travel, it would be fair to say that I like to try and sample street food whenever I travel (do you see the trend?). When I was due to visit the least visited country in the world – the Republic of Nauru – I did a bit of research and discovered that it was home to the world’s most obese population. Doing some quick logic, I deduced fat people = great food. Sadly, as I was to discover, this was not to be the case…

Nauru really likes Chinese food

When I first moved to China 13 years ago I initially had (a) no intention of staying and (b) no real desire to learn the language. Alas, 13 years on and I not only still call China “home”, but am fairly adept at Mandarin. About 1/10th of Nauru nationals or permanent residents are non-integrated Chinese-Chinese who run all the corner stores and, more importantly, the restaurants. Chinese food here is very uninspiring and obviously amended to suit the palate. Think ‘bad Chinese food’ and that is what you will get at 99% of the restaurants of Nauru.

The best Chinese Restaurant?

There are three that I kind of like:

  • Anabare Resaturant, opposite the bay where everyone swims, has bootleg liquor and great sashimi;
  • The restaurant at the Od’n Aiwo Hotel, which has beer whatever the weather;
  • J’s restaurant, which has fresh sashimi and good chips.
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 The food in every other Chinese restaurant seems to come off a conveyor belt.

The refugees have gone…

For a while there was a borderline popup scene where the refugees of Nauru started restaurants to support their life here: Iranian, Pakistani, Bengali etc etc. The refugees got to move on, and so did the food. Great for them, but not so great for the cuisine of the Republic of Nauru.

There’s one kinda fine-dining joint

Bayview restaurant in Anabare has western food, good cocktails, real Indian curries and a great sunset. It’s also kinda a bar, and the best place to eat and drink in Nauru.

Sashimi sashimi everywhere!

Pretty much every restaurant has really good tuna sashimi. Nauru is next to the sea, so the tuna is fresh, cut well and good. Wasabi, on the other hand, is imported. It seems the local way to take your tuna as it is: raw and unseasoned.

And Nauru Cuisine?

I’ve been here twice and I’ve looked a lot – and I mean a lot – but I’m yet to find something truly local. Unless badly cooked Chinese food in Nauru is considered local, in which case I hit the motherlode! I am as of now still on search of the elusive cuisine of Nauru.

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In conclusion…

The food of Nauru might not win any Michelin stars, but hey, it’s the least-visited country in the world in the middle of an ocean, and the food isn’t bad at all. It’s also not that good, but it truly isn’t bad either, and you won’t go hungry when you travel to Nauru.

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